How to properly water indoor flowers: 9 main rules A checklist for the beginner
RULE #1
Understand the plant's preferences
Each plant has unique requirements for watering frequency. For instance, cacti and succulents can withstand temporary drought, while ferns can't tolerate a lack of moisture. You can learn about a specific plant's needs on thematic websites or in specialized apps.
However, these are general recommendations, not strict instructions. Apps often suggest watering frequencies like "once every two days" or "once a week", without considering other factors. I'll discuss these other factors next.
RULE #2.
Take into account the conditions and season
Moisture evaporates faster in the sun than in the shade. Therefore, the same plant placed on a windowsill and three meters away from the window will require different watering schedules. Plants located on southern and western windows, where there's abundant sunlight, need more water.
The time of year also impacts watering. Most indoor plants grow actively in spring and summer due to longer daylight hours. They use more moisture to produce new cells during these seasons.
While I water my scindapsus about once a week in the winter, I water them every two to three days in the summer
RULE #3
Pick a pot
Material. For plants that do not like overwatering, such as sansevieria or zamiokulkasa, suitable containers made of clay, terra cotta and gypsum. These are porous materials - they take away excess moisture and dry the soil. On clay pots you can even notice efflorescence and streaks.
Plastic and ceramic glazed pots are suitable for moisture-loving plants. For example, they are good for tropical spathiphyllum, ficus, aglaonema and dracaena. Of course, they will not die in a terracotta pot, but you will have to water them more often.
Size. The smaller the pot and the volume of soil, the faster it dries out. And when the pot is much larger than the root system, the soil stays moist longer. This can harm the roots - they rot.
The general advice is as follows: the diameter of the pot should be a couple of centimeters larger than the old container in which the flower lived before. For example, if it is an adult plant from the store in a temporary container, from which the roots are already sticking out, it is not worth transplanting into a huge pot.
Regardless of size and material, the pot should have a drainage hole so that the liquid does not stagnate at the bottom. It is also a good idea to put a layer of 2-3 cm of expanded clay so that the roots do not come into contact with water.
I did not guess with the size and took a too big pot for the ripsalis. The soil takes a long time to dry out between waterings, but it's not too bad, as the plant is water-loving
The hoya, on the contrary, had outgrown its pot - the roots were even peeking out of the drainage hole. It is difficult for water to pass through such a lump
RULE #4
Choose the right soil
Soil varies in its moisture holding capacity, with one composition storing and retaining moisture for longer periods of time and another conducting it. Common moisture-holding ingredients include sphagnum moss, coconut fiber and perlite. They are added to the soil mixture for moisture-loving plants.
Sand and zeolite, on the contrary, make the composition more loose, moisture and breathable. This is the basis for growing succulents.
For succulents and other drought-tolerant plants, I use "rocky" soil from Lechuza. It is porous, breathes well, absorbs moisture and gradually gives it back to the plants
RULE #5
Check the soil before watering
It is difficult to tell by eye if it is time to water a plant: the soil is always dark and even if it looks dry from above, the soil is often moist from below. Florists advise you to feel the ground, and bury your finger at 2-3 cm, about a phalanx. If at this depth the soil is moist - water early.
If picking in the ground is unpleasant, you can buy a pot with a moisture sensor or a separate sensor.
RULE #6
Feel the plant
A cleaner way to see if a flower is getting enough moisture is to touch the leaves. If they're firm, they're fine. If they're flaccid, it's time to water.
But this works only for plants with fleshy leaves, such as hoya, peperomia, succulents, sansevieria. With ficus such experiments will not pass: from drought they begin to shed leaves.
Yellow leaves do not necessarily indicate problems with watering. If they are at the base of the plant - it is normal, so look like old leaves. But yellow or brown spots on the new leaves, wilted and twisted leaves are a sign of excess water.
By watermelon peperomiya without groping, it is clear that it is time to water: the leaves of the unfortunate are already lying on the table
It's a couple hours after watering
RULE #7
Prepare the water
Tap water has three problems:
- Hardness. Calcium salts alkalize the soil over time, which is not good for lovers of acidic soil. You can add acidifying fertilizers, such as ammonium sulfate, to tap water. But this does not solve the problem of salt deposits on the surface of the ground, which does not allow the roots to breathe and absorb water. It is better to remove it and replace it with new soil.
- Rust - excess iron harms the roots.
- Temperature. Hot tap water is dirtier than cold water. And for watering plants is better to dial just cold. But plants like water at room temperature.
When the water is hard, it is noticeable by the plaque on the plumbing and sediment in the kettle. And on the ground in the pots will appear white or yellow crust. The solution is to use bottled, filtered or boiled water for irrigation and stand it for a while.
Softened water from the ion-exchange filter is not suitable: in it calcium ions are replaced by sodium ions, because of which the water becomes weakly saline and harms the roots of plants. Distilled water is devoid of any impurities, which is also bad for indoor flowers.
Such a white deposit on the surface may be calcium salts or mold. To distinguish between the two, you should rub the deposit between your fingers: unlike calcium particles, mold crumbles into dust.
RULE #8
Water slowly and evenly
If you water quickly, e.g. by pouring out of a mug, the water will not be absorbed into the dry soil immediately. Only the top layer of soil will be saturated and the roots will not get moisture. Therefore, water slowly and until the excess water does not drain into the tray through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. For slow watering, it is better to use a watering can with a long narrow spout.
It is important to spill the soil evenly, from all sides, and not pour into one place. Then the entire root system receives moisture and develops.
Those pimples on anthurium leaves are not a disease, but a sign of uneven watering
Watering cans with a long, thin spout are more convenient: they are easy to reach any plants and the water flows more slowly.
RULE #9
Choose the time
In summer, it is better to water flowers in the morning or evening, not in the heat of the day: in the sun more water evaporates than goes to the plants. In addition, drops that get on the leaves can cause them to burn.
In winter, you can water during the day, but not in the evening, especially if the plants are standing on a cold window. Water on the leaves combined with low temperatures makes the plant susceptible to diseases. The same applies to spraying with a spray gun.
- *How do you care for your indoor plants?
